There is no Motel 6 in little Bayfield
and certainly none on the forested
islands sprinkled on sparkling Lake
Superior like disconnected green beads. But
the humorist and motel pitchman Tom Bodett
might feel at home there.
In the Apostle Islands, they leave the lighthouse
on all through fall.
Not to go off like the anti-child W.C.
Fields here — because Bayfield and the
Apostles are as family-friendly as it gets in
summer — but when autumn nights turn cool
and kids return to school, this region on Wisconsin’s
upper lip is at its soul-soothing best.
The hard work of making a living in a tooshort
summer is in the past, winter is a worry
for another day, and attention turns to enjoyment
of the fruits of that labor.
Yes, fruits — literally. At a baker’s dozen
of hill-top berry farms, flower farms and orchards,
buy-local foodies can choose from
pick-your-own or ready-picked raspberries,
blueberries and blackberries (usually, through
August) and through September and October
from apples, pears, grapes, plums, dried flowers
and jams and jellies galore. The 49th annual
Bayfield Apple Festival, the one
weekend each year that Wisconsin’s smallest
official city turns into a teeming, hungry metropolis,
runs October 1-3, culminating with
the popular Apple Festival parade down Rittenhouse
Avenue on Sunday afternoon.
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The lighthouses built to ensure safe travel on this great lake were long ago automated, but
the romance and history of keepers and their
rugged living conditions are eternal. Stories of
keepers and their quarters are told during the
15th annual Apostle Islands Lighthouse Celebration
August 25 to September 11, when Apostle
Island Cruise Tours pay special attention to
that era. Perhaps the best lighthouse experience
is at Raspberry Island, where visitors can get off
the tour boat, climb the steep stairway to the gloriously
restored lighthouse and keeper’s quarters
and, from the very top, get a keeper’s-eye view
of the lake and surrounding islands in the autumn
garb.
For other ground-level island experiences,
camping is allowed on 18 of the 21 islands that
make up Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and
hiking trails abound. One great mainland trail
that takes hikers above the celebrated sea caves
carved by Lake Superior wave action begins at
the Myers Beach boat landing about 18 miles
west of Bayfield off Highway 13.
Superior golf
And where better than the edge of the greatest
Great Lake for superior golf. At Apostle
Highlands Golf Course, high above the city,
players get views of Lake Superior and the
Apostle Islands from 13 of the 18 holes. A fully
stocked clubhouse, bar and food service are
available for post-round relaxing. Even nongolfers
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enjoy the panoramic views of the Apostle
Islands and Lake Superior from the
clubhouse deck.
Autumn is a great time to experience the undeniable
charms of Madeline Island, the only island
with year-round residents. Ride the ferry
from Bayfield for the two-mile, 20-minute ride
over Chequamegon Bay. Take a walking tour of
historic La Pointe, where the Madeline Island
Museum will tell stories of the voyageurs and
missionaries, Indians and fishermen who lived
and labored on “the rock” long before the summer
pleasure crowd arrived. And take the time
to peddle out to Big Bay State Park to walk its
wild barrier beach. Madeline Island Golf Club
boasts water and marina views and a Robert
Trent Jones Jr. design that features double tees
and double greens to get 18 holes out of a ninehole
layout. What other course in Wisconsin requires
a ferry ride to reach the first tee?
Dennis McCann is a freelance writer and club champion
at Apostle Highlands Golf Course who divides his
time between Madison and Bayfield. |
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